African plants in perfumery: literature review

Abstract

The perfume sector is highly dynamic. The global market for flavors and fragrances was valued at $26.0 billion in 2015. However, this sector is increasingly invaded by synthetic substances, the use of which is the source of many skin, respiratory and sometimes cancer diseases. This review provides an overview of possible alternatives to the synthetic substances used and their impact on the valorization of natural resources in Africa. Databases (Scopus, PubMed) and search engines (Sciences Direct, Research4life, Google Scholar) were searched for articles on essential oils from African species used in perfumery, using key words. A total of almost 300 published articles on aromatic plants used in perfumery were consulted, and around 50 were selected. Analysis of the data revealed 47 African plant species represented in 16 families. Most of the species encountered come from North and South Africa. In West Africa, very few species are used in perfume formulations. Five perfume formulations based on essential oils were also identified. The perfumes were prepared with different supports such as petroleum jelly, alcohol and water. Perfumes with water as a carrier could be an alternative form of perfume for people sensitive to alcohol.